CLOTHING GUIDE FOR PEOPLE STARTING OUT IN OLD WEST RE-ENACTING

 

THIS GUIDE INTENDED AS A STARTER GUIDELINE ONLY, DON’T BE AFRAID TO ASK FOR HELP AND ADVICE.

 

 

MEN’S WEAR

 

UNDERWEAR

 

To be made of either wool or cotton or a mixture of the two. Silk and linen are also acceptable, but less common.

These are to be of the two-piece variety. The top (Undershirt) to be of the pullover type with long sleeves and an opening at the neck closing with between one and four buttons.

The bottoms (Drawers) being full length waist to ankle, fastening at the waist with buttons or a draw string, the bottoms either open or closing with ties. Elasticised waist and ankles are acceptable in that rubberised cloth was available from the mid 19th century.

These were most commonly a natural off white colour, but other colours are acceptable, red being quite common.

 

The one piece 'Union' suit' was not available until the 1890s.

 

Socks of the period are usually hand knitted, however machine knit socks were also available to some extent.

To be made of either wool or cotton or a mixture of the two. Long fisherman's or hikers type socks are acceptable.

 

 

NECKERCHIEFS (Bandanas)

 

To be made of either cotton or silk. Bright colours were very common as were calico prints. These were large by today’s standards varying from approximately 24" square to 36" square.

 

SHIRTS

These should be of the pullover style with a placket extending from the chest to the neck, not opening the full length as with modern shirts. Some shirts were made without a collar and were only fitted with a band. Where collars were attached they were often quite narrow by today’s standards and usually square, although rounded or pointed collars were also available. Cuffs were usually no more than 2" wide.

They should be made of cotton, wool or linen or a mixture.

Buttons were made from a variety of natural materials including, metal, glass, mother of pearl, horn, china, glass, wood etc.

A good quality cotton, flannel or wool men's shirt can easily be modified to the period look of a four button pullover. You will want to find a shirt with a loose fit. (Buy it an extra size larger) Stripes, a small plaid or small check will work best because the pattern will help disguise the seam. If you can find a shirt without a collar, even better.

Get out your seam ripper and open up the seam that attaches the collar to the neckband. Remove the collar and whip stitch the neckband closed. Remove any pockets. Next rip the seam that attaches the buttonhole tab to the shirt, starting at the bottom and stopping short of the fourth button from the neck. Measure down about an inch and a half from the fourth button hole and cut off the bottom part of the fabric tab. Fold the two corners to the back, forming a point and sew together. Sew together the bottom half of the open front of the shirt. The small strip or check pattern will make this seam invisible. Sew the point down over the top of this seam. If the shirt has wide cuffs, cut them down. Turn the edges in and whip stitch the two sides together.     

TROWSERS

These should be of wool, cotton, linen, corduroy, canvas or duck. They are high-waisted with no belt loops, and button fly fronts with buttons on the outside of the waistband for attaching the suspenders. The pockets can be horizontal or vertically cut, also at the back of the pants was a small belt for adjusting the fit. Overall the pants were full cut and loose in fit.

Until you can acquire a pair of reproduction trousers, you can modify a modern pair to get you out to the first re-enactment or two in a reasonable approximation of period style. Some types of modern pants can be made over into period-looking trousers with a minimum of adjustments and sewing. This is one of the easier modification projects, so fear not - you can do this!

The hardest part is the search for the basic trouser. At your local charity shop, peruse the trousers section. Don't even look at the jeans, you want to examine the "suit" types of trousers. Buy them one size larger, or at least in a style that fits loosely in the seat and leg. Try to find them with NO back pockets, or at least with patch pockets that can be removed. Search for fabrics in wool, wool blend, corduroy or a homespun-looking cotton fabric. Period pants did not have front pleats, so avoid them. Remove all belt loops from the pants. Remove any back pockets. Split the rear seam down about 3-4 inches. Cut a hole on each side of the rear waistband, and then insert a leather lace to secure/adjust the waistband. Finishing the holes with a buttonhole stitch will prevent ripping/fraying. Sew buttons to the waistband where needed to attach braces two at the rear and either two or four to the front.

 Unfortunately, modern pants will have a zipper fly. If you are serious, you can remove the zipper and add buttons and buttonholes. If not, please at least try to conceal the zipper fly with a vest or coat.

VESTS (Waistcoats)

These came in many shapes and designs, however generally they were long in the body, (about waist length) high buttoned with pockets, either with or without a collar. They were usually made from wool, however velvet, silk and corduroy were also used. Gamblers would wear ones made from silk and brocade in a variety of prints and colours.

You can modify a purchased vest into a period style that will get you through your first re-enactment until you can fashion a reproduction vest. Search the men's wear section of your local charity shop, look only at the vest front, it should be a sturdy vest crafted of a nice natural fabric. Replace any plastic buttons with metal, shell or fabric covered buttons. Fold under the points on the hem of the vest front and stitch down-this will give your vest a straight hem in front.

 BOOTS

These should be fairly high fitting, especially if you want to wear your pants tucked into the boot. They had squared or cut back cavalry style tops and the toes were square cut, coffin shaped or semi rounded. A very important point to note is that there was no stitching at all on the boots. Stitching on the leg part for strength came in later  BUT there should be NO stitching at all on the toes. The heels were generally high on a riding boot but flat walking heels were common also.      

Depending on the type of character you want to portray, townies or brogan style shoes would also be worn and the same applies to moccasins for trappers or scouts etc. An interesting point to note is that boots and shoes in a left and right foot fitting did not appear until the late 1860's.

GUNBELTS

Movie style buscadero gunbelts are NOT authentic. The belt can be either plain or fully looped with the holster slung over the belt in the 'high ride' position. Although this may sound boring there are a vast variety of styles and designs of belt and holster to pick while sticking to the main description. The predominant colour for civilian gunbelts is brown. With regard to military wear the belts and holsters are as laid down by the regulations of the time.

HATS

Mostly these come down to personal preference, but the modern day C and W. line dance creased styles should be avoided or at best re steamed into a period style and shape. Beware of hatbands with conchos or other decorative items which are not period-correct, a simple ribbon was the most common.  Again also, be careful of the materials as some of the hats available may be cheap, but so is the material and they won’t last. Wool, beaver or a wool beaver mix is ideal.

SUSPENDERS (Braces)

These should be either made of canvas, webbing, leather or cloth...NOT ELASTIC. Slide adjusters and buckles being the rule for adjustment for the whole period. Two designs were prevalent....the 'X' type and the 'Y' type....with research showing the 'X' type to be more common. Although elastic as we know it today was not around then, some suspenders had a short rubberised web section at the back that gave a little play when worn.

LADIES  WEAR

 

UNDERWEAR

 

100% cotton, usually white but black, red and blue was also common. Consisting of chemise, drawers just below knee-length (only children wore them ankle-length) with tie waist, and as many petticoats as you want with either drawstring top or pleated into a button-fastened waistband.  A corset  goes over the chemise to achieve the correct Victorian silhouette. Cotton or wool stockings held up with a garter are most correct, you can get away with modern ‘over the knee’ long socks which are available in a variety of plain and striped colours. Match the colour to your dress.

 

PRAIRIE DRESS

 

One piece, very full cut, gathered into a yoke. Cotton or calico print, not gingham.  Long, full sleeves. Worn with a belt or an apron.

 

DAY DRESS

 

Consisting of bodice and separate skirt in the same fabric. Natural fibre fabric with a small print, or plain.  Long sleeves, high neck.  Worn very full over many petticoats in the 1850’s, a hoop up to 1869, then varying bustle styles until mid 1880’s.

 

EVENING/VISITING DRESS

 

Cotton, wool, taffeta or silk. Again, bodice and separate skirt, and an overskirt if required. Loads of trimmings in ribbon and lace. Sleeves can be short for evening wear, and necklines lower especially for ball gowns. Only single girls wore pale pinks and blues, married ladies wore bright colours, older matrons went for sober browns, purples and other dark colours.

 

ACCESSORIES

 

A lady always wore hat and gloves when out and about, gloves usually soft kid or fine wool, not crocheted. Parasol if sunny, plain black umbrella when wet. In the evening wear a hair decoration of flowers, feathers or lace (or all 3) Restrict makeup to natural colours or go without altogether, and avoid modern jewellery/wristwatches. Hair should always be worn up, centre parted and smooth for the 1860's then by  1870's a more elaborate coiffure; a fringe was not fashionable till late 1870's

 

FOOTWEAR

 

Soft leather shoes or boots in various styles, laced, buckled or buttoned, either flat or with a small ‘louis’ heel – not more than 1-1/2”.

 

ALL THE ABOVE IS INTENDED AS A STARTER GUIDELINE ONLY, DON’T BE AFRAID TO ASK FOR HELP AND ADVICE.